Regardless of the spraying method, to get the best results, keep the sprayer at a set distance from the truck (usually around 8"), avoid drips, and apply nice and evenly. You defiantly have to be using a thin auto paint for this to work. So, if you can, I'd recommend using something like the preval brand spray gun, but if you can't, I found a regular hand powered spray bottle worked nicely. So while the four dollar system is very cheap, by the time I pay shipping and handling, and wait around for it to be delivered. Except, as it turns out, the ones near me. Its a great system that aerosolizes anything, is easy to clean and available at nearly any stores. My initial plan was to use these little cheap-o sprayers from the hardware store. To make this color, I used silver (5 parts), blue (1 part) and yellow (1 part). Here, were going to apply our top color layer- for this truck, I went with a teal-green color. If you're starting to panic because it's looking like you ruined your truck, rest easy - it's going to start looking better after this step. But again, we're after a pretty thick layer and want that texture. To actually apply the red-oxide layer, brace yourself once again, you're going to need a roller. I give my truck a rinse with solvent before each paint coat. It's not essential for this layer, as we are going to be putting more paint on top, but keep it in mind for the final coats.īecause I live on a gravel road, the dust levels are pretty intense. I mix up a quart of color at a time and keep it in a sealed container until I'm ready to use it. Even if you use a paint measuring cup (which you should be using), there will be a bit of variation between batches. It's not essential, especially at this layer, but its a good idea to mix enough to cover the entire car before your start painting. To make this color, I used a combination of hugger orange and black (4 parts orange to 1 part black). Most of the older cars used a red-oxide primer, which is what we're going to duplicate here. The original model codes (and frequently the value suffix) can usually be found in the neck pocket of the body, and at the base of the neck where the mounting holes are.The next step is to put a layer of red-oxide colored paint over the base coat. Models on this page represent the 1982 - 2015 era of Fender Japan production, and typically feature the old style Fender Japan serial number at the base of the neck, as opposed to the contemporary "JD-" serial number format found on the back of the headstock. Reissue models would follow this naming convention until 2015, when Fender Japan revamped their product line to more closely mirror the organizational structure of the Mexican and American made Fender lines. While a given model might come in a variety of price points during a given model year, from entry level to the near Custom Shop quality of Fender Japan's ExTrad series, all the models would broadly follow the aesthetic and technical specifications of the original American models. If you’re starting to think that matching patina with paint is a lot more work than simply painting something, you’re catching on well. These reissue models were labeled by a two letter/two number model code for the model and reissue year, followed by a suffix that indicated the price in Yen, and any unique specifications the model had. While Fender Japan is popularly known for some of their more extravagant aesthetics, the bulk of domestic Japanese production was focused on reissues of historic American Fender models. The first era of Fender Japan began in 1982, when domestic market Japanese Fenders started rolling out of factories.
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